What Is Enamel Jewelry?
Enamel in jewelry and decorative work goes by a few names—vitreous enamel, porcelain enamel, and painted glass. The word enamel comes from the Old High German word smelzan, which means to smelt.
Enamel jewelry can feature several vivid hues.
In jewelry, enamel is a decorate coating applied to metal. It begins as a powder with a texture similar to that of baby powder. It’s fused to metals using high temperatures (1,380-1,560°F). Although enamel powder comes in different colors, the initial colors of the powder do not ultimately represent the vivid colors resulting from the high-temperature fusion process.
The temperature of the fusion process as well as the metal oxides content of the enamel determine the resulting color’s intensity as well as its transparency. Generally speaking, higher temperatures yield more durable, translucent enamel while lower temps yield softer, more opaque enamel, which is more vulnerable to damage.
Enamel jewelry is made using fine, colored powder.
The Origins of Enamel Jewelry
Enamel design can be traced back to the ancient Persians who called the art meenakari. The ancient Egyptians also practiced enamel work on stone objects and pottery—and less frequently on jewelry.
Chinese cloisonné wine pot, circa 18th century.
The art of enameling seemed to know no geographic bounds and spread to China, Rome, Greek, Celtic territories, and the Byzantine Empire. Each culture brought its own style to the art. The Chinese, for example, perfected the cloisonné technique. Cloisonné is also known as the "cell technique." Wires are adhered to a surface in a desired pattern; the artist then fills the spaces created by the wire with enamel.
A Fabergé egg.
More recently, enamel jewelry gained popularity during the Art Nouveau era in art and design in Europe and the United States (1890-1910). Artists like Peter Carl Fabergé specialized in bibelots (baubles), like the elaborate enamel egg pictured above. Other artists, like George Stubbs, used enamel to create portrait miniatures. This period was an especially ripe time for jewelry making and design in part because enameling allowed artists like René Lalique and Eugéne Feuillâtre to create intricate, nature-inspired jewelry. Enamel also offered a way to feature vibrant color in jewelry without the use of precious stones.
Common Design Styles in Enamel Jewelry
There are several design styles in enamel jewelry (including cloisonné, mentioned above). The following are just three that you may come across.
A stunning and delicate plique à jour creation by René Lalique.
Plique à Jour. French for “glimpse of day,” this style was popularized by French enamelists René Lalique and Eugéne Feuillâtre. In this style, vivid, fairly translucent enamel is suspended between gold or silver wires without any backing. The light shines through the enamel, creating a beautiful stained-glass effect.
A contemporary example of champlené enameling.
Champlené. French for “raised field,” in this style, the jeweler creates a depression in the metal (by cutting, hammering, or stamping the metal). They then fill the depressions with enamel, layering the the enamel until it reaches the height of the surrounding metal, creating a mostly smooth surface.
The baise taille technique allows enamelists to create nuanced texture in the smallest of pieces.
Baise Taille. French for “low cut,” this style features a pattern created in the metal over which enamel is applied. The pattern shows through the glass for a unique texture.
Caring for Enamel Jewelry
To clean enamel jewelry, soak the piece in warm, soapy water for five to ten minutes. Use a soft cloth to remove noticeable bits of dirt. Rinse the piece and dry it with a lint-free cloth.
If your enamel jewelry is damaged, please take it to a jewelry or artist who specializing in enamel. Repairing antique enamel is an especially delicate process since using high temperatures to fuse new enamel may negatively affect the older enamel on the piece.
Are you a lover of enamel jewelry? What's your favorite style?
You may also be interested in:
What Are the Different Kinds of Pearls?
What Are Cameos and How Are They Made?
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Photos: Jewelry Making Daily, Antique Jewelry University, Wikimedia Commons, Aloha Designs, Amazing Adronments, Cotton Boll Conspiracy
February Birthstone: Amethyst
The February birthstone amethyst is a variety of quartz with a beautiful violet hue. Its name comes from the ancient Greek for "intoxicated" (the stone was believed to protect its wearer from drunkenness). The purple hue can vary from a light, pinkish violet to a deep purple; the color is created by irradiation, iron impurities, and trace elements. Amethysts occur in the cavities of granite rocks and are found all over the world.
Roman intaglio portrait of Caracalla in amethyst
The ancient Egyptians used amethysts to create intaglio engraved gems. Later, medieval European soldiers carried amethyst amulets into battle, believing that the stone would help heal wounds and keep one cool-headed. Western Christian bishops wear an episcopal ring that often includes an amethyst, an allusion Acts 2:15, in which the apostles are not intoxicated at Pentecost.
Amethysts have also been associated with royalty and have appeared in scepters, crowns, and other items of regal jewelry. Amethyst is also said to have been the ninth stone in the breastplate of the high priest of Israel, Aaron, and one of the stones upon which the names of the tribes of Israel were engraved.
Modern Amethyst Lore
In the crystal healing tradition, amethyst is associated with peace, courage, stability, and clarity of mind. Wearing amethyst jewelry against your skin is believed to reduce stress and heighten the wearer’s intuition. Advocates of crystal healing recommend using them in meditation to more deeply connect with yourself.
Amethysts can also be used throughout the home to bring peace to any space. Placing an amethyst cluster near the entryway of your business is believed to attract abundance and new financial opportunities.
Try this self-reflection exercise using amethysts.
Amethysts at Barbara Michelle Jacobs Jewelry
Amethysts are featured in the Royal Ruby and Amethyst Twig Ring. This statement ring is designed to elevate everyday experiences—whether that’s just a trip to the store or a fine and fancy dinner—and remind you that you’re every bit as special as a royal lady!
Do you love amethysts?
You may also be interested in: The Meaning of Pearls
The Tradition of Healing Stones
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Photos: Wikimedia Commons, Energy Muse, Barbara Michelle Jacobs Jewelry
The Legend of Cleopatra and the Pearl
Accounts of Cleopatra VII’s (69-30 BCE) enchanting life story abound, but the story most likely to pique the interest of jewelry lovers involves a rather large and valuable pearl that the beautiful queen apparently drank!
According to the story, Cleopatra bet her lover Marc Antony that she could spend 10 million sesterces on one meal. To prove herself (while showing off her opulence), she removed one of her earrings, which apparently contained one of two of the largest pearls known in the land, dissolved it in vinegar, and then drank it.
In the words of Pliny the Elder (23 - 79 A.D.), “She ordered the second course to be served. In accordance with previous instructions, the servants placed in front of her only a single vessel containing vinegar. She took one earring off, and dropped the pearl in the vinegar, and when it was wasted away, swallowed it.” And the bet was won.
Until recently, this story was thought to be mere myth, but research indicates that this trick is actually possible.
"All you need is vinegar and a pearl. In my experiments, I used a white vinegar sold in supermarkets. Wine vinegar was most common in the Greco-Roman world, so it is likely that's what Cleopatra used," classicist Prudence Jones of Montclair State University explained to Discovery News. The acetic acid in the vinegar reacts with the calcium carbonate in the pearl and produces calcium acetate, water, and carbon dioxide. Interestingly, the cocktail wouldn’t taste as acidic as straight vinegar because the calcium carbonate somewhat neutralizes the acid in the vinegar.
The effect isn’t instantaneous, however. It takes roughly “24 to 36 hours to dissolve a pearl weighing approximately one gram.” The end result is a translucent gel-like substance.
Adrienne Mayor, a research scholar at Stanford University's Departments of Classics and History of Science, suggests that the myth—and its plausibility—may give us insight into the kind of clever character Cleopatra was:
“I think this research has convincingly demonstrated the technique that Cleopatra could have used to dissolve a pearl. We already know that this curious, intelligent queen carried out toxicological experiments," Mayor told Discovery News. "It's likely she softened the pearl in advance, then crushed it and placed it in a goblet to dazzle Marc Antony with her wealth and arcane scientific expertise.”
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Photo: Wikimedia Commons
From the Studio: Rutilated Quartz Earrings & Quartz Necklace
Rutilated quartz is a transparent variety of quartz with naturally occurring thread-like pigmentation called rutile inclusions. The inclusions range from thin to thick and sparse to dense and can run parallel or crisscrossed. The inclusions are usually reddish, gold, black, silver, or, rarely, greenish. Each manifestation of rutilation is different, so every piece of rutilated quartz is unique. Although inclusions are typically considered flaws when they’re present in precious gems, they lend a special, ornamental quality to quartz.
In the crystal healing tradition, rutilated quartz is associated with enhancing mental focus and getting energy moving. Practitioners of crystal healing believe rutilated quartz is connected to the solar plexus chakra (the third chakra), the core of an individual’s self-esteem and willpower.
Whether or not you believe that rutilated quartz can play a role in fire-powering your day, it’s hard to deny that these stones are just cool. I recently made these earrings with slices of rutilated quartz.
They feature two varieties of rutilated quartz—quartz with gold inclusions and quartz with black inclusions. The stones are set with an open back to allow light to shine through the quartz. The gold rutilated quartz is set in 22-karat gold while the black rutilated quartz is set in silver. I created cuts around the silver bezel settings to add texture and a sense of depth.
If you’re wondering what the earrings are hanging on, that’s a tool used to measure the height of metal objects when forming them. The pointy ends are used to etch level lines. It also makes for a handy way to display earrings!
While on the subject of quartz, I also wanted to share this raw quartz necklace. The chunk of quartz is set in 22-karat gold and is displayed on a thread of sapphires. This piece is just one example of how semi-precious and precious stones can beautifully complement each other.
7 Pieces of Iconic Jewelry from Classic Film
Old (and New) Hollywood is an endless source of fashion inspiration--especially when it comes to jewelry and gemstones. The following are just a few classic movies featuring timeless pieces. Enjoy this feast for the eyes!
Vivien Leigh’s Cameo Brooch in Gone with the Wind (1938)
Cameo’s have a long, rich history. Dating back to the ancient Greek and Roman empires, cameos often depicted important scenes among family or even the gods. Mourning cameos depicting a lost loved one were popularized by Queen Victoria in the 19th century.
Leave it to Hollywood, however, to take the trend to the next level. In Gone with the Wind, Vivien Leigh wears an extra-large mourning brooch set in gold, depicting a figure riding birds, a rather unusual scene for a brooch at the time. The brooch belonged to the costume designer’s mother.
Katherine Hepburn’s Arrow Brooch in Sea of Grass (1947)
This beautiful, creative piece was created by Joseff of Hollywood, a prominent supplier of jewelry to the movie industry. The two-part piece worn on the heart-shaped dress with a sweetheart neckline creates the appearance of an arrow-struck heart. Was there ever a more romantic piece of jewelry?
Marilyn Monroe’s Diamond Necklace in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953)
In addition to sparking interest in fine jewelry designer Harry Winston (“Talk to me, Harry Winston. Tell me all about it!”), Gentlemen Prefer Blondes features an antique diamond with a fascinating history. The Moon of Baroda, a 24-carat pear-shaped yellow canary diamond was the property of the Maharajah of Baroda, India for 500 years until the 18th century, when it was worn by Empress Maria Theresa and later worn by Marie Antoinette. Eventually, the diamond was taken back to its original home where it stayed for another 200 years until Meyer Rosebnaum purchased it, and Monroe wore in the diamond-filled film.
Grace Kelly’s Faux Diamond Necklace in To Catch a Thief (1955)
The lovely Grace Kelly wore an eye-catching diamond necklace to seduce a gentleman jewelry thief played by Cary Grant in To Catch a Thief—but the diamond necklace was fake (both in the narrative of the film and in real life!). Could have fooled me!
Audrey Hepburn’s Pearl and Diamond Necklace in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961)
“I’m just CRAZY about Tiffany’s!” So were many other jewelry lovers after Audrey Hepburn wore a multi-strand diamond and pearl necklace and matching diamanté hair piece in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Paired with her sizzling black Givenchy number, the jewelry made a gorgeous statement and launched a chic style that’s still emulated today.
Elizabeth Taylor’s Snake Belt in Cleopatra (1963)
Another piece made by the Joseff family, Cleopatra’s snake belt was an unusual, striking piece of jewelry. Joseff’s wife, Joan Joseff measured Taylor for the belt, and by the time the belt was ready, it was 2 ½ inches too small for the actress. Taylor insisted that the initial measurement was incorrect, but others wondered if the actress’s weight had fluctuated. Either way, the piece truly memorable.
Julia Robert’s Diamond and Ruby Necklace in Pretty Woman (1990)
Custom-made by French jeweler Fred Joaillier, this iconic necklace features 23 pear-cut rubies set in diamond-encrusted hearts. The piece is first introduced in the humorous scene when Richard Gene snaps necklace box closed as Julia Roberts reaches for the sparkly item. Of course, the real stunner of the scene was Roberts herself.
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Photo: MiCasa, Shades Daddy, Collector’s Weekly, Shilpa, Raindance
5 Creators of Stunning Sculptural Jewelry
While all jewelry is art, sculptural jewelry is a special kind of art. It’s jewelry that thinks outside of the box—and indeed sometimes has trouble fitting into an actual box. Some sculptural jewelry is designed to be worn, boldly, while other pieces are intended more for display—whether that’s in your curio cabinet or in a modern art museum. Either way, these designs are far from boring. If you do find yourself wearing a piece of sculptural jewelry, savor the experience of participating in a work of art. After all, while these pieces are quite striking on their own, they ultimately draw attention to the exquisite contours of the human body.
Jeweler Lexi Daly created a series of sculptural necklaces from coffee shop waste including coffee cups, stir sticks, and coffee cup jackets. The series is intended to raise awareness about how much waste is created by disposable coffee cups. According to Daly’s website, “In 2010 Americans consumed 23 billion coffee cups. To create those cups 9 million trees were cut down, 5 billion gallons of water were used, creating 363 billion pounds of waste.”
“FireFall” features coffee cup jackets that have been folded, painted, and varnished. When worn, the necklace sounds like bamboo wind chimes blowing in a light breeze. The back of the necklace can be taken off, and a simple chain can be attached for times when the wearer would like a smaller version of the necklace. It would also make a lovely display piece.
Cheryl Eve Acosta Multi-Media Necklace
Designed to position the human body as a site of display, Cheryl Eve Acosta’s sculptural jewelry combines various media (including silver, gold, copper, enamel, and fabric) to echo the natural world with an engaging twist. Acosta’s designs are inspired by the cycle of life as well as the beauty of coastal life and contemporary fashion.
“I am really inspired by fairy tales and fables. Especially those with a dark undertone or moral to the story, like the original versions of Grimm’s Fairy Tales or Aesop’s fables. Overall, stories are an important part of my creative process,” Emily Cobb says of her sculptural jewelry.
“I imagine plots and characters that inspire the jewelry’s composition and form, ” she says, “Then I think about material choice, how the work will interact with the body, etc. At this point, the story and the piece are not definitive. The appearance of the characters, or the direction of the plot, may change as the jewelry piece is designed and made.”
Cobb employs computer-assisted design (CAD), colored nylon, and photopolymers to brings her beautiful visions to life.
“I first design the jewelry pieces on the computer using a 3D modeling program called Rhinoceros, which I learned as an undergraduate at Tyler. When I finish building the digital 3D model, I send the file to a 3D printer. Finally, once I receive my 3D printed parts, I dye and assemble the pieces.”
Charlotte Chesnais Sculptural Jewelry
After studying at Studio Berçot in Paris and working at Balenciaga in jewelry design, Charlotte Chesnais began her own jewelry line. Handcrafted in France, Chesnais’ unique sculptural jewelry blends fine craftsmanship with conceptual edge, combining sophisticated, contemporary lines with dainty minimalism. The designer’s materials include silver, vermeil, and 18 karat gold.
Samantha Nania Precarious Balance
Samantha Nania’s creative work emphasizes preciousness—the idea that everything we wear or own should be cherished and well cared for.
Nania also prioritizes reducing her material waste and makes a point to use even the smallest bits of material. Her designs that include wood are created with excess cutoffs from furniture making and flooring installation. Indeed, no piece is too small to be used in a conscious and loving way.
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Photo: Lexi Daly, Cheryl Eve Acosta, InLiquid Art + Design, Charlotte Chesnais, Samantha Nania
Trend Watch: Asymmetry in Jewelry
You've probably noticed asymmetrical jewelry lately. Whether it’s in the form of “mismatched” earrings or modern, amorphous clusters of stones, this trend combines a youthful spirit of creativity with contemporary elegance. The following pieces are all about individuality and breaking the rules with a twinkle in your eye. You’ll find that despite the apparent geometrical imbalance of this jewelry, each piece manifests its own, unique brand of visual balance.
Barbara Michelle Jacobs Esperanza Twig Hoop Earrings
Made with 100% reclaimed silver and cast from Central Park twigs, these sexy, oxidized sterling silver earrings come with a removable white silver pod. Perfect for sultry evenings out.
Barbara Michelle Jacobs Blue Sapphire Solitaire Engagement Ring
The subtle asymmetry of the silver band in this sapphire solitaire engagement ring comes from the twig that was cast for this ring. Sometimes the most beautiful things are found in nature—and nature plays by her own design rules.
Tessa Packard London Courtesan’s Earrings in Blue
These cleverly asymmetrical earrings are decorated with pave-set black diamonds, carved lapis, and suspended sapphire, smoky quartz, and tourmaline gemstones. Truly a glamorous set for the woman with a creative edge.
Jordan Alexander Gold Ring with Diamonds and Feather
This remarkable ring is indeed an attention-grabbing statement piece that combines mixed metals and several small diamonds with a large pearl.
Inspired by crusty yet beautiful old boats and pier beams, these “mismatched” sterling silver barnacle studs are a fun choice for anyone who loves life by the beach.
Xiao Wang Mismatching Gravity Earrings
These stunning asymmetrical earrings come with lots of movement and sparkle. They’re the jewelry equivalent of a fine glass of champagne accompanied by your favorite jazz track.
MeiraT Diamond & Semiprecious Stone Bracelet
Described as “artfully imperfect,” this delicate bracelet combines small diamonds with a beautiful stone (choices include labradorite, blue opal, mother-of-pearl, and ruby).
Eden Presley Golden Mantra Choker
Combining three trends in one—mantras, asymmetry, and chokers, oh my!—this fun, customizable necklace was created to remind us of what’s important in life.
What’s your favorite asymmetrical piece?
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Photos: Barbara Michelle Jacobs, Tessa Packard London, Jordan Alexander, Casey Sharpe, Nordstrom
